I read Gordon Stimmel's brief column for Jan 1 2009 at the Star's website.
Basically, he gets into some examples of pairing food and wines and gives the example of an oaked chardonnay working with a thick sizzling steak and herbed butter. He can't see why it works (but it does). I enjoy Chardonnay with steak (in my case it is more on the fruity side and find fruit wines that are a bit sweeter also go with it). I also like Chardonnay with lamb (without the mint sauce since that doesn't appeal to me ). Not being a chef I can't tell you the actual interaction of the flavours of Stimmel's match, but can say that the herbed butter is flavour balancing for the chardonnay.
I repeat the core premise of matching food and wine, sweet foods and umami make a wine taste stronger while sour foods make a wine taste milder. Salt and lemon juice can be usefull allies if making the wine you like, go with a food that wouldn't otherwise. Tim Hanni has a flavour balancing seasoning called Vignon (http://www.napaseasoning.com/Vignon) that is supposed to allow many foods to go with wines that "would not be acceptable" under traditional rules. (I can't find it in Canada yet so I can't comment on it)
The point is that the potential is here for a wine comsumer to enjoy wine at whatever level they feel comfortable with. They can use the principle I mentioned above or use more traditional wine pairing techniques or whatever criteria they wish. If it makes your wine experience richer who is it for anyone to say that it is wrong to use. Freedom of choice is the bottom line.
To look at Gord Stimmel's article click the title of this entry.